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Ready for your next steak? These Colorado ranchers are battling drought to get it on your plate

A rancher is seen tending to his cattle across an open land setting.
Cheney Orr
/
The Colorado Sun
Louis Martin, 66, the manager of Brett Gray Ranch opens a gate to a paddock Monday, June 15, 2026, in Lincoln County. Ranchers across the state are running their operations amidst an ongoing drought.

Last year, the VanWinkle family fought flames to keep their cattle business alive. This year, they’re fighting drought — and they worry the drought will be worse.

The Turner Gulch fire sparked after dry lightning swept through Mesa County in mid-July, threatening lives, homes and infrastructure. As the flames raced across the dry landscape during hot and windy days, the fire spread into the vast high country where ranchers, like the VanWinkles, grazed hundreds of cows on federal land.

The family’s No. 1 goal was not to lose cattle, Janie VanWinkle remembered. They woke up at dawn to be on-site in case they needed to move the herd. When cows became separated, they would run in to look for the animals between slurry drops. At one point, only a half-mile from the fire, VanWinkle got slurry on her arm.

“Then we would run in and look for cows,” she said. “Then we would run out and wait for the next round. It was intense.”

The fire burned for 47 days, but the family’s work continued for another two and a half months as they managed the herd on unfamiliar grazing land and brought them out of the high country in the fall, VanWinkle said.

To read the entire article, visit The Colorado Sun.

Tracy Ross writes about the intersection of people and the natural world, industry, social justice and rural life from the perspective of someone who grew up in rural Idaho, lived in the Alaskan bush, reported in regions from Iran to Ecuador and as a parent of kids growing up during the age of accelerated climate change.